What are the points you should take into account
when it comes to choosing fruit trees? It is a
question we are often asked, and here are just
some of the factors you might want to consider:
Final
Height of the Tree
The final height of the
tree is often determined by the rootstock that
it has been grafted onto. Varieties are available
that range from very dwarf (between 1.5 and 2.0
metres in final height) up to vigorous (3.5 to
4.0 metres), depending upon the category of fruit.
Pollination
Peaches, nectarines and
apricots are all self-fertile, as are many varieties
of plum, damson and cherry, so pollination and
fruiting will not normally pose a problem.
On
the other hand, apples and pears often need a
pollinator to encourage fruiting. Most suburban
situations offer generous supplies of pollen due
to the close proximity of other gardens, but if
the fruit tree you select does need a pollinator,
you should choose to plant a partner for it nearby
that belongs to the same or neighbouring flowering
group.
Soil and Site Conditions
Fruit trees will tolerate
most types of soil, but a deep, loamy, well-drained
soil is best. They will rarely thrive in heavy
clay, rocky soil or soil with low levels of fertility.
Cherries
perform particularly well on chalky soils but
most fruit trees prefer a neutral soil. Some varieties,
such as apricots, peaches and nectarines, require
some shelter from frost and thrive best when grown
under cover or on a warm south-facing wall.
A
very open, windy site is not ideal because the
blossom can be blown off before pollination occurs.
Feeding
Fruit trees need feeding
at the end of February in order to crop well.
- Nitrogen
promotes foliage and vigorous growth;
dessert apples
need less than cooking apples and pears, while
plums and cherries appreciate more.
-
Phosphorus promotes healthy growth
and fruit.
- Potassium
is necessary for good fruit colour,
flavour, hardiness and fruit bud development.
How much feeding fruit trees need depends on the
soil and can be adjusted depending on growth,
cropping and soil analysis. An annual mulch of
bulky organic matter after applying the fertiliser
will benefit trees by reducing water loss and
suppressing weeds, as well as providing some nutrients.
Bulky organic materials include well rotted stable
or farmyard manure, leaf mould and garden compost.
Pruning
Most fruit trees benefit
from regular light pruning. Little and often is
the rule of thumb to keep in mind. Some varieties
of apple and all
medlars and quinces are “tip bearers”
and should not be pruned except to remove whole
branches which are very old, damaged or
diseased.
Apples and pears can be pruned at any time of
the year.This is generally done in the late autumn
or winter but summer pruning is particularly effective
in controlling growth and containing the tree
size. Cherry trees along with apricot, damson,
gage, nectarine, peach and plum should only be
pruned lightly in the summer to avoid disease
problems.
Pest
and Disease
Aphids can be a problem
on many fruit trees, often attacking new growth.
Apples and pears are prone to fungal diseases
such as mildew and scab, especially in hot weather,
but will not affect tree growth or fruit development.
Stone fruits are susceptible to bacterial canker
and die back which is often caused by excessive
watering between leaf fall and bud burst. As with
most plants, prevention is better than cure! Keeping
your young trees well watered and weed-free in
its first year will get it off to a good start.
A strong, healthy tree can fight off most diseases.
If you are keen to prevent fungal diseases, use
an approved fungicide once the tree comes into
leaf and then at two-week intervals avoiding blossom
time due to bee activity. Pesticides should be
used sparingly and only if necessary.
What
varieties of fruit tree do we stock?
We carry many types of fruit
tree, and also different varieties of each, including
Apple, Pear, Cherry, Plum, Gage, Damson, Medlar
and Peach.
The
best way to determine what is available is to
visit us, but do also check the catalogue listing
under our Plants
section.
Most
of our stock is based upon 2-year-old trees in
12 litre pots. We have a few in larger 20 litre
containers which are a year older, and during
the dormant season we will also have a stock of
bare root trees.
We
often stock a selection of cordon, espalier and
fan trained trees.
When
to Plant a Fruit Tree
Generally,
the best time to plant is in the late autumn and
winter, before the tree comes into bud. Most of
our trees are container grown and can, in theory,
be planted at any time. If planted during the
summer months when they are actively growing,
they are unlikely to get sufficient water to thrive.
Please see our Planting
and Watering
Guidelines.
Recommended Reading
Growing Fruit Trees,
by Bonham Bazeley (Collins)
The Fruit Expert, by Dr. D. G. Hessayon
(Expert Books)
The Backyard Orchardist: Complete Guide to
Growing Fruit Trees in the Home Garden, by
Stella Otto.
Growing Fruit (RHS’s Encyclopedia
of Practical Gardening), by Harry Baker.
|